Australian Wine:  The Once and Future King?

You’ve never heard of Campbell Mattinson:  He’s a young, urbane Australian wine wordsmith who forsakes the academically erudite and plaintive wine writing style of legends past for a muscular writing style that is jocularly loose yet incisive, showing every bit of the wunderkind talent of his global English-language contemporaries, Jamie Goode and Neal Martin.

Likewise, you probably haven’t heard of Mattison’s *new* wine book, Thin Skins: Why the French Hate Australian Wine first published in Australia in 2007 and now just released in America.

Seemingly stillborn upon its October publishing date in the states and updated with a scant epilogue where the author notes, “The headiness described in the early passages of this book is now long gone,” the book formerly offered in situ context on the boom and looming bust of the Australian wine landscape and is now something of an ipso facto think piece on the manifested reality. 

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With recency in absentia as one negative checkmark, Thin Skins as a body of work brooks no favors for itself either.  Even when first published four years ago, it represented a compendium of articles and profile pieces, individually quite good, but collectively never quite transcending its constituent parts, especially one that supports the premise of the title.  And, unlike its subject matter, time has not aged the book into cohesion.

Worse still, brought to the U.S. market by publisher Sterling Epicure, the book is likely supported with little more than the gas it takes a truck to drive a meager allotment of books to an Amazon.com warehouse and the dwindling number of Barnes & Nobles that still populate the landscape, a veritable line item in an editors’ fourth quarter publishing spreadsheet under the header, “wine.”

Thin Skins seems destined for a hastened half-life and quick retreat to the remainder bin at Half-Price Books…it’s an ignoble fate heaped upon by my damnation.

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But, I’ve feinted purposefully, misdirecting by caveat because, despite everything I’ve mentioned having some inherent truth(including the author being very talented), Thin Skins is a wildly entertaining book that delivers on providing a teasing glimpse into a distinctly Aussie viewpoint on the factors that led to the Australian wine boom (Parker points, market forces, greed and drought) and in so doing the author makes three key points worth repeating:

1) The Aussie wine industry, save for its Gallo-like equivalents, is NOT happy about their country’s production being viewed globally as syrupy supermarket plonk

2)  Our U.S. perception IS NOT reality regarding Australian wine; their wine industry has an abundance of refined, terroir-based wines from small vintners

3)  The Aussie wine business will rise again on the international scene (in an entirely different form).

One key takeaway for me from the book is that Australia is remarkably similar to the U.S. 

In the U.S., some reports indicate that 90% of the wine sold is “corporate” wine, the kind found at supermarkets across the country.  However, what IS different is that 90% of our national conversation about wine focuses on the 10% of the wine production that ISN’T in the supermarket i.e. everything non-corporate – the boutique, artisan and interesting.

Yet, when it comes to Australian wine, we don’t continue our conversation about the small and beautiful.  Instead of talking about the superlative, we view their entire country production through the lens of the insipid, the Yellowtail and other critters that cost $6.99 at Safeway.

American wine consumers would be rightfully indignant if the world viewed our wines not as we do, a rich tapestry, but as industrialized plonk from the San Joaquin Valley.

This is where Australian wine is at today—a ‘perception is reality’ mistake of colossal proportions.

While offering an abundance of stories from small producers along the way, Mattison suggests that while it may take time, with Australia having 162 years of winemaking history, the day will come, sooner rather than later, when Australian wine forsakes its near-term reputation and is viewed on the world stage as a wine producing country that can proudly stand next to its New World peers.

I wrote recently that I’ve noticed a slow change in tenor from American influencers regarding Aussie wine, they’re becoming more sympathetic, they’re starting to speak less dismissively and more optimistically and holistically about Australian wine, discussing the merits and great diversity in the land of Oz.

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Recent Symphony IRI sales data bears this out as well.  According to a Shanken NewsDaily report from this week, Australian wine in the $15 - $19.99 category rose 23% in September.  In addition, growth is coming from varietals not named Shiraz (see also syrupy supermarket plonk).  Instead, Semillon, Riesling and Pinot Noir are showing growth.

Still, it’s not the land of milk and honey here in the states for Aussie wine, as it once was.  Overall sales are down by volume and dollars, but as Mattinson alludes the correction in the U.S. market isn’t going to be pretty, but it will be healthy and it’s quite possible that Australia will decrease in overall volume and dollar sales from persistent decline at the low-end for years to come as the high-end grows, but not at a rate to replace what was lost.

The net sum of that doesn’t balance a spreadsheet, but it does balance mindshare.

Pick-up Thin Skins if you want to get turned on to a great wine writer while also enjoying a greater understanding of Australian wine – where it has been and where it’s going—perhaps not as a future King, but definitely not in its current role as court jester.

Campbell Mattinson’s Wine Site:  The Wine Front

Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/australian_wine_the_once_and_future_king/

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Wine in a can: boon or boondoggle?

When you get a wine in a can, does the sommelier let you sniff the lid? And place it on the table during dinner? The Telegraph (!) reports on a study that shows alternative wine packaging is on the rise. The (British) industry is trying to lightweight materials: Marks & Spencer has ten wines in [...]

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GuSC/~3/6Uz6hZin-lY/

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Luxury Gift Baskets

Every year with Uncorked Ventures Matt and I want to make improvements in both the way we handle our business (the processes involved) as well as the offerings we have. On the wine, simply continuing to grow our customer base as well as continuing to build relationships with wineries and vineyard owners will do the [...]

Source: http://winewithmark.info/archives/651

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Tasting Report: Recent Releases from Sojourn Cellars

It was just about a year ago when I tasted the wines of Sojourn Cellars for the first time. Since then I've enjoyed their wines so much I feel almost remiss about not having written about their wines here previously.

Sojourn is a Sonoma-based producer of mostly Pinot Noir (~$39-$59) and also Cabernet Sauvignon (~$39-$95). The first time I tasted their wines was at an event in Cambridge a friend on their mailing list invited me to. Founder Craig Haserot was on hand pouring the wines as a chance for their fans in Massachusetts to try before they buy. Definitely a cool gesture. He's got a swagger about him for sure. Deep knowledge about Burgundy and a passion for Pinot - especially Sojourn Pinot!

I thought their wines -- 2009s at the time -- showed great potential. They were powerful and delicious but with some rough edges I hoped would soften with time.

As I've gone back and tasted some of those wines 6 to 12 months later they have indeed softened nicely and are showing fabulously. The style here, speaking about their Pinot Noirs, is more of a Cab-drinker's Pinot Noir. I find they hit the spot when I'm in the mood for a Pinot Noir with a little extra substance.

But that's not entirely the case as you can see in their bottlings from the Alder Springs and Rodgers Creek vineyards for example. These wines show restreaint and reveal earthy characteristics like mushrooms and wet red clay. It's a testament to winemaker Erich Bradley's ability to deliver flavorful, delicious wines regardless of the origin. Their wines may be considered by some to be ripe but I've not yet tasted one that crossed the line into the over-ripe territory marked by raisiny/pruney flavors.

Here are my notes on recent Sojourn releases:

  • 2010 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (6/8/2012)
    Classic Sojourn. Money. (92 points)
  • 2007 Sojourn Pinot Noir Alder Springs Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (3/16/2012)
    This is a great example of Sojourn's diverse style. Despite making some riper Pinot Noir, here they let the a more restrained site speak for itself. Silty raspberries, wet strawberry leaves, and wet clay on the nose. Ultra-silky tannins at this stage. Long finish but no harsh aftertaste. Pretty but not wimpy. I like it. (91 points)
  • 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Ridgetop Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/26/2012)
    Just a fantastic offering from Sojourn here. A fine example of their typical style, but this one steps up and takes it to the next level. Raspberries, strawberries, violets and perfume on the nose which transition seamlessly to the palate. There's a bit of a edge to their '09s which has softened already since tasting them last fall. However, this edge give their wines a substantive punch that hits the spot when I'm in the mood for something between a light bodied Pinot Noir and a Napa Cab. Quite an accomplishment. Outstanding. (94 points)
  • 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (11/11/2011)
    I was in the mood for a Cab tonight but I love domestic Pinot Noir so I thought this one would hit the spot. And it did. I've only had it about a month since it shipped cross-country. But immediately upon opening it was in good shape and ready to go. I'd tasted through their 09s previously and they struck me as a little rough around the edges. But this bottle was showing remarkably well. Red fruit, florals, perfume, and wet clay on the nose. On the palate it tastes like pure high quality CA Pinot Noir. Pure fruit, a little bramble, some acid. Love it. Really nice stuff. (93 points)
  • 2009 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (5/20/2011)
    So much good stuff going on here but a slightly herbal "off" note bit me on almost every sip. An otherwise pretty wine - would like to try other bottlings from this producer. (90 points)
Posted from CellarTracker

They've got a tasting salon in Sonoma if you happen to be planning a visit. And it's hard to think of a more consumer-friendly high quality producer. Free shipping on 6 or more bottles and 10% off 12 bottles or more.

Click here to visit the Sojourn Cellars website and sign up for their mailing list

Question of the Day: Have you tried Sojourn's wines? If so, what do you think?


Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/WellesleyWinePress/~3/X_lkBUub6wY/tasting-report-recent-releases-from.html

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